When you get a new ride whats the first thing you find? My common discovery is that every single danged bearing from the crank to the shocks is worn out or no longer even there. Many times you can buy the seals cheap, but the bearing(s) seems to be made from unobtanium if the price is anything to go by. Well, save those dollars. www.vxb.com No I don't work or in any way affiliate for them. I buy from them and save thousands of dollars a year. They offer HIGH quility in-house bearings not 'buy from the china-man and resell at exorbant rates'. Excellant ABEC (ultimate tolerances) rating. For example, crank bearings average 10-22 bucks for the set with 6-9 added for shipping. Those 6202-2RS bearings on the front wheel, 9 bucks for 10 with another 7 for shipping. Those 2 swingarm bearings youre paying 40 for? Try 7 with another 5 for shipping for the pair. Many A-arm bearings as well. They don't carry everything we'll need but they still save huge money for my shop. Give em a visit.

i think 370 orders from there too

can you do anaricle on where to replace the bearings and how?

I looked up the bearings and only found the rear axel bearing and the crankshaft bearings. Does any one know if they sell the front wheel bearings and the swingarm bearings for the lt? i'd like replace all my bearings on my lt.

Another excellent place is http://myworld.ebay.com/racergirlsrock They have a complete set of A-arm bearings to do all four arms of the LT's with seals for $50. They also have many many others.

Most importantly, when buying bearings from places like VXB, you need to know the bearing size or number. Many places that sell just bearings and seals don't always know what machines they'll fit so they just list them as size and part number.

When replacing the axle and wheel bearings, many times you won't need new seals which just increase the cost anyway as you usually can only get them in a full overpriced kit. Any ball bearing can be purchased with a ZZ or an RS or 2-RS after the part number. This means it has a metal seal around the balls (ZZ) or a rubber seal (RS) or two rubber seals (2-RS). If you buy the bearings with a seal already installed onto the bearing you can just reuse the original seal that you normally put in after in after installing the bearing as a dust and dirt seal. And the cost between a bearing with a seal on it and one without is usually a couple cents difference.

When using sealed bearings, be sure to remove the inner seal on both bearings and fill the carrier/hub with grease. It is easily removed with a pick or knife tip.

When doing A-arms, a kit is usually best unless you can get the seals new cheaply. They really need to be well sealed to offer any lifespan. Usually by the time you need new arm bearings, you need new seals as well anyway. This goes for the swingarm bearings and seals as well.

While some bearings are only available from the manufacturer, like the cusion lever big bearing on the LT500, places like VXB and Racergirlsrock can save you some serious cash.

Does anyone know the number for the rear swingarm bearings at the pivot point?

The bearings #'s you are looking for are "TLA 2220's" Hope that helps you or anyone else that might be interested.