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| my shop teacher at my high school started a project jeep, they bought the cheap brush on liner to go on the inside, he told me that sence i was looking to do my frame in a liner rubber material that he would give me whats left over from the jeep, so im tearing it down and bringing it over to the shop on tuesday, im going to use the rest of the liner he has and then put a couple coats of underbody automotive spray, im also goint to fix any rust and dents |
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| Your going to put rubberized undercoating over the bed liner stuff? If thats what your planning I would not do it, ever work on anything with undercoating on it after it gets hot outside? It's like tar, gets everywhere, also if you get any gas or carb cleaner on it, it will run right off in a sticky mess. If you just do the truck bed lining I think you will be ok. The cheap shit in the can flakes right off though if the surface is not prepped just right though.
__________________ 1998 Yamaha Blaster - Vito's 240 kit, Flotek agressive trail port - Vito's 3mm stroker crank - Shaved head, running 110 Cam2 - 35mm Keihin PWK carb - V-force 3 reeds / 3/8" Aluminum spacer plate - Clamp on K&N w/ outerwear & custom air box - Lightened flywheel - Barnett clutches w/ heavy duty gold springs - Power Pro's right hand bend head pipe & silencer - 4" Extended swing arm - Honda 450R front shocks, Honda 450r rear shock - Douglas wheels w/ holeshot tires - 03 - 06 plastics & custom HID Headlight - Fly handlebars, ASV levers - Banshee front brakes - Custom powder coating & Chrome - G-force extended adjustable axle - American stars +3 up 1 Chromoly Racing A-arms |
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| how do you suggest i prep it, without a sand blaster |
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| Well if it was me I would not even do the frame in that stuff. That bed liner that you buy in a can at the local auto parts store is crap. The stuff I have seen and delt with flakes off after a short while, and looks worse than when you started off. The ONLY good spray in bed liner is Rino Liner it is between 1/8" and 1/4" thick after applied. Save up a couple of bucks and go to your local auto paint supply store and pick up some POR15. If you get a kit, should not take to much to do a frame. Depending on where you go you can get the kit for 75 bucks or under. And it comes in matte black, gloss black, and silver. This stuff is tough, and you can paint over rust after you use the zinc wash that comes in the kit. The rust will not come back. I have sand blasted parts painted in por15 and powder coating, the por15 is just as strong if not stronger than powder coating. Spend a couple of extra bucks now and don't worry about the thing again.
__________________ 1998 Yamaha Blaster - Vito's 240 kit, Flotek agressive trail port - Vito's 3mm stroker crank - Shaved head, running 110 Cam2 - 35mm Keihin PWK carb - V-force 3 reeds / 3/8" Aluminum spacer plate - Clamp on K&N w/ outerwear & custom air box - Lightened flywheel - Barnett clutches w/ heavy duty gold springs - Power Pro's right hand bend head pipe & silencer - 4" Extended swing arm - Honda 450R front shocks, Honda 450r rear shock - Douglas wheels w/ holeshot tires - 03 - 06 plastics & custom HID Headlight - Fly handlebars, ASV levers - Banshee front brakes - Custom powder coating & Chrome - G-force extended adjustable axle - American stars +3 up 1 Chromoly Racing A-arms |
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