Can a broken sleeve skirt be welded?

[sblt500r]

will it hold up to a bore? i have a near stock bore cylinder that the skirt was broken off. can i weld it on? and then have it bored? i know its cast, so if i need a special welding rod i can get it. i have access to all kinds of welding supplies.

[Big Dave]

That’s a good question. I have heard of someone doing once that but I wouldn’t do it and I wouldn’t recommend it. It will be a very expensive repair if it doesn’t work and it shatters or the piece drops down in the crank assembly. Is it for one of yours or are you doing a repair for some one?
Dave

[BlueDiablo]

Just seems better to get it done properly...last thing id want to happen to that engine is a peice of the sleeve seizing up the crank. not knocking your welding skills, its just that with something that gets hot and cools down, any weakk spots in that weld will give out. Trust me youd be alot better getting a new sleeve.

[sblt500r]

this is on a cylinder i just bought. he didn't pack it very well and one of the skirts broke off. the crack looks old so i think it was on its way. i got screwed on the deal, so i'm trying to salvage something! its 20 over so its a shame if the cylinder has to be sleeved. well it does have a shitty port, so it may not be worth trying!

i am only going to do this if i know it wil hold up. i was talking with the guy who does my boring and he said hes tried it before and the boring bar will break off the skirt at the weld. i don't know how he welded it.

i have a few extra cylinders that are junk, so i tried on another. i welded on 2 tabs that i first broke off, and the weld seems very strong. i can pick up the cylinder by the tab with a pair of pliers and the wieght of the jug doesn't cause it to break. so i bared down on one to see if it would snap off, well it did, but not on the weld, it broke off above the weld. so i do think it is possible and should work. if it can be bored without breaking i don't think there will be any problems running it. well see i guess.

i guess no one else has tried this then?

[2002shee]

Not that I'm saying this will work for you but I ran my KX for years with a broken sleeve skirt. I noticed it obviously when I had an engine failure and rebuilt it but I found that the broken piece didn't have anything to do with piston travel or ports so I reused the sleeve. I would however opt to resleeve rather then weld. Nothing beats piece of mind.

[Kane]

I've had some cylinders welded in the past, but only because they were antiques that were impossible to find parts for. I've always, when able, removed the sleeve for welding and then annealed the cylinder to soften the weld. Cast doesnt anneal and harden like regular steel and welds so this isnt a problem. I know you can't really do that with yours as you may as well swap the sleeve if you have to remove it.

If you do decide to try it anyway, heat the entire cylinder to 500 degrees before you weld it. This will prevent heat-caused cracks and weakening from occurring when you weld on the cylinder.

[Big Dave]

I was just getting ready to reply again and read Kane’s post. Cast can be welded and the weld will hold but like Kane said you have to warm it up slowly before you weld it and try and maintain the heat while you are welding it. After you finish welding the piece you also have to cool it down real slow. (I can’t emphasize enough on letting it cool slowly) You could use your stoves oven for the heating and cooling process. I have welded cast many times, mostly on water jackets of old dozers and machinery. What I have found most effective to maintain heat while welding and letting it cool slowly is packing sand around the work area.