Head gasket problems

[superevil]

I have tried 3 different head gaskets so far (stock-cometic-wiseco) and they all leak antifreeze to the outside. It will hold at idle,but when you get on it for a few seconds at wot,fluid seeps out. I figured the cylinder or head needed to be resurfaced,but i checked both with a straight edge and both seem straight. Is there anything else that could do this?

[trx]

what kind of gasket material are u using

they should be torqued to 20 pounds


i have a question i over torqed on one of my base nuts by 28 pounds instead of 25 pounds i guess i moved the dail or something so i lossed the bolt then retorqed to 25 is the base gasket okay on that side beouce i went 28

[ants84olds]

ya the gasket should be fine

[trx]

Originally Posted by ants84olds

ya the gasket should be fine

ya thanks


i didnt mean to jack no ones thread but we were on the subject of gaskets...lol


but superevil if u are using those steel gaskets like those three layaer ones they are a pain in the ass try to find one that is the same materail as the base gasket

[superevil]

Ive tried the stock steel,cometic,and a wiseco--- and the factory service manual calls for 22 pounds i believe

[BIG T]

ok one thing you can do is cover the head gasket in lock tit and put the hea back on and let it set or you can put it on and were it is leaking tighten the bolts beside it to stop leaking. and don't be a dum ass and put it on wrong.

[honda250r]

mine has that super slow leak on the outside too

[ants84olds]

Try to put the head on and torque the gasket, let it run until hot and then let it cool off. After cooled off try to retorque it.

[offroader247365]

use copper coat gasket sealant. it works great. you should be able to get it at tractor supply

[chiribomb]

Have you decked the cylinder or the head? Are you using the acorn nuts?
You need to verify that the nuts are not preventing the head from being torqued correctly.
I use the stainless steel flange nuts that are not capped, because I found that the capped nuts can bottom the threads and prevent the correct tighting of the nut.

if that doesnt help, oring the head but thats costly.

Also the torque wrench is a precision tool and the head should be torqued 3 times in a crisscross pattern, @ 14, 17, and finally 21 ft lbs.

Run it for about 15 minutes let it cool down and retorque the head.

You have to remove anything that in the way of the wrench, dont use extensions or swivels as that can give you false readings. Just a six point socket.

Remember to store that wrench set at just a couple of pounds, so that is stay accurate. They should also be recalibrated at least once in its lifetime.

I know some of this is a given but you can never have too much info.