Just Bought a 88 TRX250R....Got Some Questions

[tecateboy]

no actually he just did mention that 2 posts ago

[CHAD]

Originally Posted by CHAD

I said the maintenance manual recommends it. Straight from the book "Castol R30 20:1, Yamalube 'R' or equivalent 24:1"

nope, sure didn't forget to mention it,

look, this is stupid and getting old, I'm closing the thread, sorry if I insulted you, the only point I wanted to get across was don't dog other peoples opinions, you say run at 32:1 great, I say 50:1, cool.

edit: if you got anything else you'd like to say you can pm me if you'd like.

[370banshee]

Originally Posted by cr125 kid

dont listen to 370 .. run whats recomeneded ... they wouldnt tell u wrong .. 32:1
,-Zach

what the fuck do you know???? i;ve been running amsil at 50:1 in everything i own for 2 years...... and i'll be honest.... i'm hard on top ends..... always heve been.... and i have had NO PROBLEMS what so ever..... 50:1 is the recemmended premix ratio set by amsoil...... and by the way.. 50:1 is not lean thereare people running dominator at 80:1.....

you run what you run i really don't give a fuck.......

crkid i think your mouth is doign you no good.... your barking out shit with no knowledge at all.... in fact 50:1 is a very popular ratio..... spectro reccemends to mix one 3/4pnt bottle with 5 gallons... thats 52:1... peope run klotz at 50:1 all the time and dominator is recemended at 50:1...... you wanna know why your belray is recemended at 32:1..... because the belray is a lower quality oil..... they may claim it's a semiblend but the thruth is that any company can claim semi blend but still use the same oil stock as a conventional...... castrol beign a huge producer of conventional oils they would be the first to use this tactic.. thier oils are inexpensive when it come to synthetics..... now they do add the same addtives as a synthietic oil does.... but the stock the oil is based off is actually a conventional...... the fact is that higher quality oils like amsoil, redline, royal purple and even klotz are quality synthetics.... they use better stock better additives and thats why you lose less of it... dominator is antifriction and anti scuff.... lets put it this way..... i'd use that belray crap for a break in.. when you want ring and cyl wall wear..... then after 4 heat cycles i'd drain that stuff out and start bonfires with it...... then run my amsoil........ if you have any technical info to add.. please do... if your just gonna ru your mouth about soething you have no clue about........ then shut the fuck up.... oh and for the age game.... i'm 23 and have been riding for 19 years of it....... been wrenching for many years also....... actually crkid.... i think from now on when somebody has a problem i'll send them your way..... see if you knwo what you actually claim to know with your "don't listen to 370" bullshit........

[crazyracer]

just from experience and dealing with 370's attitude.....crkid....you need to listen to him. He DOES know what he's talking about. Just like the rest of us, when someone comes out and starts talking shit, then we're gonna come back with vengence. I have had a few run ins with Chris, but it is usually just a difference in opinion. However, you are saying that he doesn't know his Oil, and now you are just plain wrong. Also, you contradict yourself. You said "run whats recommended....run 32:1." But Amsoil and many many other companies RECOMEND 50:1. Also, many chainsaws run 50:1 no matter what the oil. Flat out, just LISTEN to 370 and if you don't like what he has to say, then be done with the thread, don't start bashing the guy.

Anyway, back to the MAIN topic of this thread, 250r questions. I forgot who posted this, but whoever you are, listen up. You bought an 88 correct? That means your clutch is a little harder to pull than what it could be. I recommend getting the 89 clutch components and installing those. Also, that lever the cable pulls on down on the left side of the motor can be tapped down to create more linear force and easier pull. You need to tap that lever down until its starts to hit the corner of your jug, then obviously stop. Also, i recommend getting a MSR RAPTOR clutch perch. They have 3 different posistions for the lever, and one of those positions make it a TON easier to pull in (like 33% i think). Once you do those minor clutch mods, the clutch will be much easier to pull without loosing any gripping power of the clutch. Also, there are some axle carrier differences in o-rings, but that is just different from the years, and not really a major issue to address.