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| ok i bought this bike in very clean shape just mecahnical problems. but i have 3 problems. the piston was siezed in the cylinder. so im getting it resleved at la sleeve with a weisco piston kit. but there are alot of metal shavings on the crank area. hows the best way to get these out without rebuilding the entire motor. the other problem is a stuck throttle cable and fried clutch. but im worried about the shavings cuz i get all the parts next week and want it all to go smoothly together. thanks |
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| well how hard is it to rebuild the bottom end. dont you need speacil tools, or is it better to pay a shop to do the rebuild |
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| is there anyone in the so cal area good at rebuilding these for not to much? or a reputable person that wouldent mind rebuilding it and how much. just looking at the book, it says i have to pull the tranny apart to take out the crank and i dont know about all of that. |
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| I have had the same problem as you, except that mine was a thrust washer that vibrated to pieces in my cylender, HE is right if you dont get all of the metal shavings out of the crankcase they can go into the berrings and eventually wear them uneven. but I understand that you dont want to rip into the tranny & split the cases. In this case you could take the engine out & remove ALL oils and with the jug off take some carb cleaner & turn the engine upsidown, spray into the crank case & you will see all the metal shaving come out. DO THIS VERY THROUGHLY and take your time. Make sure you do it to the transfer ports of the jug also, as there are most likely shaving in them. I have used this and my engine works fine & has for the last 1.5 years, but I know within 1-2 years i will need to redo the bottom end. Use your own judgement....
__________________ 1985 LT250R Quadracer Manufacture Date: 12-84 +8mm Hot Rod FloTek Drag/Dune port w/ Head Mod LA Sleeve STD Weisco Piston AAEN Pipe 1Dirracing Ported Reed Block w/ Secrets Keihin 39mm PWK Nology Pro Fire Coil & HotWires 7oz off FlyWheel Barnette Kevilar Clutch Kit UNI filter +2 +1 Chrome Burgard A-Arms +4 Chromoly Swingarm WORKS Fronts w/ Rezzys DuraBlue Rear Strut Billet Twin Row Carrier LSR Axcaliber +2 Axle & LSR Brake Hub "If your not scared, your not safe" |
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| youll probably want to invest in a proper case splitter, flywheel remover, and if your crank is shot - youll need a tool for that too. The price of those tools alone is probably cheaper than having a shop do it. If youre like most of us - the $$$$ is the deciding factor. If you can afford it and dont want to learn, than hey, take it to a shop no worries and have some peace of mind along with it. Personally, It seems daunting and intimidating, and it probably wont go perfect - but i reccomend doing it yourself. In the end youll learn tons and be able to work on your bike alot better. Doing the bottom is the most difficult/time consuming involved thing on your quad - if you can handle that, the rest will seem easy. Just my thoughts - the bottom end was the first thing i did to mine - it was blown when I got it. If you know anyone thats good with small motors cars etc, recruit them to help, their explanations and mechanical knowledge will be a blessing - even if they havent done a 2 stroke before. Redoing it is the best way to learn...consequently, just about the only. But you gotta decide what suits you best - thankfully - youve got a pretty sick community here to help you out if you need it. e2s has been a life saver for me and continues to be. Good luck in your decision! Regards. |
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| well i just learned that to have my cylinder sleeved and with the pistin and rings i3 370, plus 250 for a shop to dissasymple inspect and install new seals in the bottom end. so thats 620 hoping there is nothing wrong with any of the bearings. is someone selling a complete motor. or maybe even just a good cylinder for an 88 so i can save a little money. oh ya thats not including it needs a clutch. so please if anyone has a motor to sell or any suggestions im open. do i bite the bullet and go broke on the motor. or find an alt route. thanks guys for all the help its really appriciated |
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| the only tool you need is a fly wheel puller the Lt case's usually just fall apart after you get all the bolts out . and the crank bearings come out really easy . there not pressed in super tight or nothing . but what i always do in your case is fill case with diesel swash it around rotate the crank then dump it out . you can also make a suction tube with some fuel line and a air nozzel to suck stuff out . there isnt really that far for pieces to go in the crank not that much room in there
__________________ grease under the nail, busted knuckles,determanation=satisfaction |
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| fill the crank case up with premix and move the crank up and down a couple of times dump and repeat 4 to five time. keep in mind you have to pull the motor to do this. After you are done make sure the conecting rod inst wobbly from side to side. If wobbly then you have to do a bottom end.
__________________ Ass up- Elbows out- Get off the line without a doubt! |
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| it has movment from side to side but i was told thats because the thrust washers are on top in the piston imstead of in the crank. but im scared cuz i cant get all the pieces out and it gets stuck at certain points. so im now trying to get the swingarm bolt out to remove the motor but that is all siezed in there. |
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