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| also how good is a ct pipe? this bike has the ct national kit.
__________________ 1987 LT250R XC/woods racing/harescrambles setup everything rebuilt/replaced, mostly aftermarket 2002 Yamaha Blaster SOLD ![]() SFDR harescrambles start line |
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| also, anyone who has burgard a-arms, do you kow if they use the same shock length as stock?
__________________ 1987 LT250R XC/woods racing/harescrambles setup everything rebuilt/replaced, mostly aftermarket 2002 Yamaha Blaster SOLD ![]() SFDR harescrambles start line |
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| Damn you got a good deal on that thing.
__________________ Passion Racing blaster LA sleeve 240 cylinder Vito's +3mm crank 39mm Keihin PWK Shearer custom built pipe for this motor to Jim's specs shaved and rechambered head with 4 angle design cases moddified to run banshee TZ bearings custom billet intake custom billet flange custom H2 Piston K&N airfilter PE billet clutch basket RDZ HD clutch springs PVL ignition WCR 1-5 duneable override +4 swingarm LSR Honda style hub ![]() ![]() 1989 Suzuki LT250R ported cylinder FMF gold series Keihin 38mm PJ boyseen rad valve reed spacer K&N clamp on lightened flywheel |
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What he said. I'd say you paid about the right price for just a good running lt much less a worked over one. Lets see some pics!
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| Damn you got an awesome deal, that may be the best deal i've seen on a built LT. CT pipe is good, it is not the absolute best but i would not spend money on a new one. A pair of Elka's or ohlins would be sweet for the front, not sure if it is the stock length shock with the a-arms though. You can measure the distance from upper mount to lower mount at free length, then call the shock companies and ask them the length of their shocks. About the sputtering, make sure you have good gas in there. With the porting you probably need at least 100 octane (that is normally how CT does it) also make sure you are getting good spark and that your air filter is clean. Congrats on the buy man
__________________ 86 LT250R Keihin 36mm FMF pipe and silencer Midrange Port Works Shocks all around |
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| Hell yea you got a good deal on that thing I would be looking at about 3500 easily for something like that out here..... The carb should have the size on it.... Works are a decent front shock better than factory but elka, and ohlins are much better from what I have heard if you have the cash... You got any pictures of this thing? Where you at in illinois? I grew up near mattoon / effingham
__________________ 85' LT250R Desert 4 poke killer in progress (Done Did It) Bored .20 over; Flotek Dune Port / Head Work; Boyesen Reeds; 38mm PWK; FMF Pipe & Silencer; UNI Filter Airbox Removed; +2 Durablue Axle; Terry Cable Dual Gasser; ASV Levers; Dune Cut Fenders (Whenever I Get The $$$) +2 +1 Burgard A-Arms; +2 Metaltech Swinger; SS Braided Brake Lines; Works Rezzies; Hood & Hood Cap 86' PW50 My lil pimp's ride 01' 2500HD Highway Assault Vehicle ![]() 6" Suspension ; 2" Body; 4:88's Front and Rear; Rezzies All Around; Cold Air Intake; Power Programmer; T/B Spacer; MSD Ignition; Custom Anti-California Exhaust; 35/12.50/17 BFG's; Decent "little" Stereo ; MPG?? I don't want to know; No Mudflaps |
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| the 10th diget of the vin is the year code. f=85,g=86,h=87=j=88,k=89,l=90,m=91,n=92. the vin on the motor should be under the carb. you measure the inside of the out port on the carb. hope this helps. |
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