E2S > Performance > Suspension Mods > Swing-arm

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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmkmupBanshee
I Was Just Baseing Horsepower Off What Some Other Redneck Said I Should Be Making.
enough said!!!! LOL i bet he also told you to put a dg grab bar on it for a 15-20 hp gain.. and some hot cams for the real big hp gain.. LOL
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2005
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Well at first he told me a full drag port would cost me around $1000.00 for him to do it in his garage. I thought that was just a little high, actually I'm not sure which was higher him or his price.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2005
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i hope you didnt pay no grand for porting. Mine would only cost me 40 bucks. So it would only run you at most 80 through my guy. i wouldnt have put anymore then 300 down for sure tho. Sound like you got the big stiff one on that
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2005
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No, actually the motor is at 1 Dir racing right now. I should have it back fully assembled and ready to go. I think port work through Will was like $365.00.
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Old 09-17-2005
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banshee porting is usually 400-600$ by most big name professional builders ,a full drag port is slightly more. whoever is doing porting for 40$ per cylinder is not going to make crap for horsepower IMO because it takes many hours to do one cylinder right and still hit all the port timing numbers accuratley and get into the transfers angles and sizes does this builder work for 4$ an hour?????i cant imagine the cheap porting has the time and preciseness that is needed to make strong usuable power onan y bike .it is also very unlikely to make 100 hp on a 350 ,it has been done as mentioned , but not without the aid of nitromethane/alky/NOS and massive extensive porting with a very narrow powerband and no bottom end and it was probably slower than a 80hp motor. most good builders will have a very hard time getting a 350 stock cylinder over 70rwhp on gas and 4 mills over 80+.some have better luck than others and dynos can be manipulated liek a mofo too. the 65mm cubs are getting 80 out of them and the 4 mill versions are getting 90+. the 15domes are just killing your topend rpm and if it is truely a drag port .. it is making an abundance of its power toward the topend rpm but its being killed off by the high compression. id go even higher than 17cc if it were me ,there were some test dynos on HQ that showed huge power loses and peak rpm drops when you start dipping down into the mid teens on domes, if it were me it try a 19 or maybe an 18cc dome.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2005
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Yea I Still Have To Talk With Will About The Domes, Those Are The Ones That Came With The Head When I Bought It.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2005
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15cc domes are killing more than your rpm, try rod bearings, pistons, wrist pin bearings, basically anything that moves. Put it this way a stock banshee motor with 15cc domes has a higher comp ratio than a diesel, do you really think thats going to make it run better or very long. Even with a ton of porting and a tall as hell exhaust that is still going to be too high for ideal settings. The comp ratio needs to be around 15:1 or so not closer to 20:1 which is where 15's will get you. Get some 18cc domes.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2005
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is there that big of a difference between my 17cc domes and 18cc domes?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmkmupBanshee
is there that big of a difference between my 17cc domes and 18cc domes?
That all depends on the EX duration. If its high enough then they will work ok, but they need to be open a long time to work with a 17cc dome.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2005
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i say ditch the cool head and have a nice moddes tock head done up.... you'll be much happier.... plus the squish band is way more accurate on a cut stocker than a mass produced cool head dome..
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