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Why is my blaster backfiring?

24K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  Super Noober 
#1 ·
Ok, let me explain. My blaster was running fine. I did not ride it for a month. I tried to start it and it ran and sputtered and died. So, I then thought...I know it needed an overhaul. So I rebuilt the top end. I put new reeds in also. I then regapped the spark plug and tried again. Same problem! except this time it back fired and sputtered and died, lots of smoke. I pulled the spark plug and it was very wet. Hmmm. I then overhauled the carb. (thinking I had a clogged jet or something from setting a long time.) Tried again after the overhaul. SAME PROBLEM!! then my thoughts went to this...Could it be the gas? Todays gas is not very good anyway. I use 91 octane and add 101+ octane boost to the 1:32 mix. Do you think the gas could've broke down in a month enough not to work? I poured some of the gas on the patio and set it on fire to see how it would re-act. It did catch on fire but not as I thought it would. Help, what do you experts think? I have been working on 2-strokes for about 4 years now. I never came across this problem.
 
#4 ·
another thing is i never use octane boost some of that stuff eats away at the reeds
 
#7 ·
Why do you think the timing skipped or something like that? IT RAN PERFECT WHEN I SHUT IT OFF. Then I started it and it would not start. Do you think it skipped when I turned it off? Or something? I will look at the timing. Also, I recently blocked off the oil injection doo hickey. lol. I pre mix my gas. And I will kill the whole 101+ Do you have an alternative gas additive that will raise 91 octane to approx. 97?
 
#9 ·
the only real alternative for higher octane is race gas or the equivilent.
the only thing you should add to your gas besides the oil is some Sta-bil at the end of your riding season and then run about a half of a tank with that at least before storing it. it will help keep your carb from getting gummed up real bad while being stored. todays gas has way too much ethanol in it, and it's wrecking havoc on float needles and other parts inside of carbs. 2 stroke and 4 strokes alike.

if you look at your flywheel, you will see a crank trigger tacked to the outside. if it does not line up with the coil pick up at the right time, you will have firing issues. a sheered flywheel key can cause this by letting the flywheel spin out of time on the end of the crank. also, the coil pick up should be within .020 of the crank trigger. you can use a match book to get you close if you dont have feeler gauges.
 
#12 ·
just something i wanted to add is that you need to block the oil lines after you get rid of the oil injection system. but you probably know this.
 
#13 ·
The guy I bought this blaster from had already blocked the exterior oil lines going to the oil injecter system. I seen this and opened the engine cover and proceeded to remove the injector and cogs and put the block off gasket and cover on it. That is all I done.. of course the exterior lines are not needed anymore but remain blocked. This is what you meant? There are no lines past the injector is there?
 
#14 ·
yeah thats right..i should have stated it better, sorry. also the inlet for the oil line on the carb needs blocked off if it is a stock carb.
 
#15 ·
ok the timing issue...I did find that some wires from the stator were UNPLUGGED!! WTF!! I plugged them in and BING! she fired right up. ran for a while got hot and PLOOP died. Had power, sounded good, but died. I got frustrated and put it up. lol. I wonder if I unplugged that damn wire again? Also I am wondering if I remove the TORS is it better for the blaster? or does it make a difference?:Dope:
 
#16 ·
i would remove the tors and see what happens, cant hurt..
 
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