E2S > Types of 2-Strokes > ATV's > Yamaha Banshee

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Old 03-25-2008
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Default fatty's to t5's jetting?

alroght i changed from fmf fatty's to toomey t5's and i have stock carbs pods, v3's im at 340 on mains, 27.5 on pilots , it seemed to run fine at first but now it has a stumble rapped out like it gotta be a main, can any of you tell me what jetting changes i need to make, i have 3 or 4 sizes in either direction , i just would like to hear a suggestion before i go and pull the carbs off and on a hundered times im aorund 700 feet above sea level

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Old 03-26-2008
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what do the plugs look like? how's the throttle responce?
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Wiseco .50mm over, 28mm flat slides, bead lockers, Pirrelli race rails, FMF fatty gold/ powercore2's, K&N filter & powerlid, V-Force 3 reeds, NOSS cool head w/21cc domes,DMP Graffix and seat kit... yea the mods keep coming...
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Old 03-26-2008
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my uncle runs 280's main and stock pilots with needls on stock location with t5's with pods

at sea level or 500 feet
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Old 03-26-2008
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There are specific places to look at the plug, not just the plug in general. Toomey recommends that you put your needle on the 4th clip and have stock pilots. If its the main check the center electrode on the plug after ridden a while and go from there.
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Old 03-26-2008
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yea they say to do 4th clip on their needle , but i really think its too rich, i dont ride anything above 1000ft or so and the 4th clip was just too rich, its all trial and error though,you gotta try a few things , so many variables in the jetting , climb any hill posted a plug chop thread a couple days ago with the pictures and stufdf , check it out, that will tell you how to get your main jet dialed in, and then play with your air fuel screws, let it sit and idle and adjust them like 1/2 turn at a time and wait 10 seconds or so between each turn on both, if you have to turn then more than 2 1/2 or so to get it idling good than your pilot jet is too big, you gona have to experiment y ourself though, always do one thing at a time though and then run it again
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oh yea, i should've realized not everyone know's the correct way to read a plug.
I take alot of my mechanical skills for granted... anyhow i would type everything out but it would take way to much time. the quick basics is look into the plug ceramic when you look at them. you'll need a plug light. Some guys use the ear doctor thing. looks just like it anyway. you want to see if the fuel is burning like it should. black or dark with oily residue means too rich, little black on top but white and clean inside means your gas washing your motor. if you look around the edge of the top where the electrode is attached to the body you should see a little blue-ish coloring. if there is no color difference then its burning to cold. if its whitish
and ashy its burning to hot and probibly lean. a good indicator would be a glassy yellowish tanish kinda color on the insulator.. that means the cyl temp is getting way to hot and your gonna melt something soon. there's a ton of different things to look for , but this post is already to long.. try to post a pic of the plugs.. remember to take a pic of the electrode area not the threads of the plugs.
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1989 Banshee 350 (not that stock anymore)
Wiseco .50mm over, 28mm flat slides, bead lockers, Pirrelli race rails, FMF fatty gold/ powercore2's, K&N filter & powerlid, V-Force 3 reeds, NOSS cool head w/21cc domes,DMP Graffix and seat kit... yea the mods keep coming...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacko jacko
yea they say to do 4th clip on their needle , but i really think its too rich, i dont ride anything above 1000ft or so and the 4th clip was just too rich, its all trial and error though,you gotta try a few things , so many variables in the jetting , climb any hill posted a plug chop thread a couple days ago with the pictures and stufdf , check it out, that will tell you how to get your main jet dialed in, and then play with your air fuel screws, let it sit and idle and adjust them like 1/2 turn at a time and wait 10 seconds or so between each turn on both, if you have to turn then more than 2 1/2 or so to get it idling good than your pilot jet is too big, you gona have to experiment y ourself though, always do one thing at a time though and then run it again
When adjusting the air screws you need to set the bike idling about 500rpms higher and then once it idles at the highest point you turn the rpms to normal.
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ok i havent cheched the plugs yaet but , do i really need to go way down to 280 from 340 just for the toomeys? and i was thinkn that i need to go down on the pilots but i'll check plugs and change pilot tomorow. and go down to 320 on mains if tha plugs are to dark, and go from there. im sure some1 has done this exact thing b4 so if anyone knows exactly please let me know
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Old 03-26-2008
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im telling u this

my unlce this got his banshee and it was compelety stock

so he threw on some tommeys with pods and reeds

and he called tommey and yamaha and they both recommend 280's on stock pilots and needle postion

and it runs top notch everywhere on the powerband and we checked the plugs and they where chocalte color it was perfect jetting

the jetting with the 280's are from sea level to 1000 above sea level

and with fmf u have to jet very rich for some reason
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fresh seals and main bearings
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ported cylinder
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k&n filter with no airbox
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Old 03-26-2008
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I don't think you need to reject because you're changing pipes. I can run FMF or Pro Circuit's with same jetting & I run same mods as listed above.
Maybe play with the air/fuel screw a bit but that's it. I think you need to reject because it sounds rich. But hey every Shee is diff, what do your plugs say?

I go from 2 to 2.25 turns out on a/f with 280/290 jets, needle on 3rd clip @ sea level.
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