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| Its all about how much money you want to spend
__________________ 86 Honda 310R Power Valve Paul Turner Eliminator pipe 39mm Sudco racing carb 215psi 110 octane 310esr p/v Ported by Neil at C-Leigh Racing +4 Durablue axle +2 Burgard A-arms 87 Quadzilla Lonestar custom swingarm Lonestar axecaliber axle Lonestar steering stem Powder coated frame Custom Paint 42.5mm mikuni Alky carb (soon to be 48mm Packard Lectron) Marvin Shaw suspension LOTS OF CHROME Trinity Drag port ( I know its Trinity, but do you want to race it ?) CPI oof drag pipe am I forgetting anything? hmmmm ![]() ![]() Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience! |
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| i kind of agree. but with the cheetah, there are a million different companies who have a million different types of port jobs for exactly what you want on the cheetah cuz it's been around longer. and with the stroker,,,,, do you want to take the time to trench the cases, and do you think you need a stroker that big? whatcha gonna be doing? |
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| I'm not made of money, but I will spend more to get the better product. Nothing worse than settilng for something and not being happy with it down the road. I understand there are a milliom options on porting, etc. I'm really wanting to know which cylinders better than the other, and why. Maybe they're not? That's why I'm asking. I know the T-Rex seems to be considerably cheaper than the Cheetah. The bike will only be a flat track bike, and will only come out of the trailer for the bigger tracks. It will never be trail ridden, MX'd etc. |
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| alot of ppl flattrack the cub with a 4mm. but it is on the bigger tracks. no tight ovals. ur not gonna have fun with it on a 1/8 mile |
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| There is no way a TRex is cheaper than a cub, you have to have their head, their intakes, etc. A cub will use all your old stuff. Now...a Cheetah with a powervalve would be what I choose. 4 mil 421. Broad power due to the power valve, yet killer top end. And yes....it will be pricier. |
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| I run a T-Rex set up for flat tracking and it works out fine, you have just got to go through the whole kit and custom it for your application. A few little tips?! Lower the compression a lot, aim for 8 to 1 corrected if you run race fuel, lower if pump gas. Do not widen the exhaust port at all flow the cyl head for better cooling run plenty of piston bore tolerance I would definatly run the 10mm stroker set-up if i were you |
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| The cheetah is what i would recomend. It has a much better out of the box power because its a much better port layout. for the T-rex to run with a cheetah it will take alot of time in re-working the ports.
__________________ Passion Racing blaster LA sleeve 240 cylinder Vito's +3mm crank 39mm Keihin PWK Shearer custom built pipe for this motor to Jim's specs shaved and rechambered head with 4 angle design cases moddified to run banshee TZ bearings custom billet intake custom billet flange custom H2 Piston K&N airfilter PE billet clutch basket RDZ HD clutch springs PVL ignition WCR 1-5 duneable override +4 swingarm LSR Honda style hub ![]() ![]() 1989 Suzuki LT250R ported cylinder FMF gold series Keihin 38mm PJ boyseen rad valve reed spacer K&N clamp on lightened flywheel |
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| Really depends on what style of power your looking for and how the engine will be used, HP to dollar ratio is always a concern as well. Broad usable bolt on power , but a little pricey.... Cheetah, excellent drag engine but pricey with lots of re-work to run well ....Cheetah, excellent drag engine with less re-work and less money and as fast as the re-worked Cheetah....Cheetah Cub. For small flange drag engines, 4mm crank is all you need, save the money and run just as fast or faster on the 4mill if your builder uses real science and not opinions while building it.....Jim
__________________ www.passionracingengines.com Last edited by PassionRE; 04-09-2008 at 04:43 AM. |
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