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| hey thats what the banshee if for beating on .lol lol i bet john @rjatv has that top end kit.... free plug for john. lol lol |
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| good idea. ill give him a holla once i acces the damage. I think a local shop in town sells race fuel if so, ima get some 18cc domes and get some race fuel ![]()
__________________ ![]() 1 flotek ported shee and a 2-fiddy |
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| [quote=RagunCajun;301211]good idea. ill give him a holla once i acces the damage. I think a local shop in town sells race fuel if so, ima get some 18cc domes and get some race fuel [/Qnow your talken. ![]() ![]() |
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| i would bore the jugs while its apart for peace of mind ,if your willing to g othe race gas route get some 18 or 17cc domes it will totally wake it up over the 20cc one in it now ...the difference is amazing for torque plus yo u can then really bump the timing up too .all good things
__________________ CLICK BELOW FOR MY NEW SITE http://flotekperformance.com/home http://www.rjatv.com/ cheapest ^^performance parts online |
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| hmmm...didnt expect a bore. Well that's more money and down time. If ya say so denny. Now i need to see who bores stuff locally. thanks.
__________________ ![]() 1 flotek ported shee and a 2-fiddy |
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| whats the current bore? id just hone it n go if its not bad.
__________________ 1987 lt250r .20 over ported 88 jug fmf fatty answer silencer Banshee Shocks Zilla Carb 400ex plastics 450r rear tires ................... 88 blaster 240 jug trail port pwk 34mm carb ..................... 2003 cr 85 fmf fatty pipe tc topend v force 3s works shocks .................. 2001 kx 60 stock ................ 1987 banshee.. boysen rad valves fmf fattys some goodies. ...................... 1982 250r - After market silencer - wiseco topend- +4 swingarm - 86 Front end -84 or 85 rear plastics and seat ........................ 2003 polaris predator 500 uni airfilter Fmf Exhaust .............. and alot more bikes. |
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| Is your crank welded? If not...stay away from the higher compression, add more timing. Stick with 19 or 20cc domes and bump it up to 7 or 8 degrees of timing. If it's welded, I wouldn't go lower than 18cc domes. You get too much compression, it starts fighting itself on top end. Doing donuts, etc might be fun, but you don't get much air going through the radiator...keep that in mind. Have the bore checked by a local machine shop. If the piston to wall clearance is still pretty tight, hone and fresh top end. If not...bore and fresh top end. You're going to want to flush your cases...all that metal went somewhere. Take the cases out of the bike, mix up a gallon of 20:1 or 16:1 gas and oil. Pour it down both sides of the crank case....turn the crank over by hand, then dump it out. Repeat this a few times until the gas/oil coming out of the side that blew up is no longer silvery or dark.... If you just slap the top end back on after having a broken piston, you're wasting all your money, IMO.... |
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| Does the motor turn over easy or with some help more than usual?
__________________ My bikes Foster Bike 00' Banshee (Shit my buddy don't ride it!) 84' FXE Shovelhead 72' Norton Chopper |
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| turns over the same. Thanks dave. I didnt know a lot of that stuff. Looks like ill be taking the engine out of the bike to make things easier. As for lack of airflow. I always go run it down the field road at a low-ish rpm for a while after to let it cool off. There's a good engine shop near me but he does only car/marine engines. Ill see if he could check the bore for me. and my crank isnt welded. I knew it adds stress but it totaly slipped my mind. Good thing u mentioned something. I'd hate to split it and wreck my bearings etc.
__________________ ![]() 1 flotek ported shee and a 2-fiddy |
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