Clutch not working. Need some rebuild advice

[Boosted]

Well I'm a newbie here but I have a 94 Blaster that my cousin gave to me. When I got it the clutch didn't disengage, to ride it i had to bump start it and knock into neutral when stopping or just shut it off. Well I want to fix it so I pulled the motor and pull the clutch cover, the clutch basket has some play and when I move the clutch arm the whole basket moves. I guessing this is my problem, is there a bearing behind there? Is the any rebuild kits with everything I need to rebuild the motor? Again I'm new to atv's, I'm more a car guy.

Thanks for the help
Bill

[BlueDiablo]

how much play do you have in the lever? If theres no play then you need to adjust the tension. Theres the adjuster on the lever...if thats not it then you need to adjust it at the basket. 10mm socket and phillip head screwdriver is all you need once the cover is off. I adjust mine until you can squeeze a nickel in the lever play. Yes there is a little ass bearing that goes between the two rods. All you need to rebuild the top end is:
Piston and rings kit(usually they come with the circlips ,wristpin and Needle bearing)
Complete Gasket kit

Check to make sure the cylinder wall isnt scored and take it to a machine shop and check for roundness.

[ky 2stroker]

buy a clymer's repair manual, its worth every penny if you plan on working on everything yourself.

[revin-it02]

same problem happened to me last summer, and trust me its going to be a pricy bill

unless you know enough about blasters, id have a dealership do it, YOUR GOING TO HAVE TO SPLIT YOUR CASE

there a little ball that goes inbetween 2 push rods that push and pull the clutch in and out, well somethimes that ball bearing either welds to the rods or disenigrates all together, thats y it wont disengage

[skipzero]

You don't need to split your cases! To find out if your missing the little ball just use a small teloscopic magnet, or just tip the blaster over and it will roll out.

[Boosted]

Thanks for all the replys.

Well I took everything apart a lilttle more and found out that the ball was "welded" to the first rod and the arm that the clutch cable hooks on too is worn out where the 2nd rod hits it. Im pretty sure thats my problem. After seeing how cheap everything to rebuild it i think im going to do a total rebuild

Any suggestions on what setups to run w/ stock carb?

[BlueDiablo]

get some v-force 3 reeds, K&N filter Toomey Exhaust if you plan on keeping it with the 200 jug.

[skipzero]

I have a toomey for sale. Its not crome. Its painted RED with high temp exaust paint and baked on. There are no digs dents in the pipe. I only used for one season before I had to go bigger. It has been in my closet ever since. It does have one small rub mark on the silencer. I want $175+shipping if your interested PM me.

[BlueDiablo]

I have one that is chrome for sale. lol

[revin-it02]

Originally Posted by skipzero

You don't need to split your cases! To find out if your missing the little ball just use a small teloscopic magnet, or just tip the blaster over and it will roll out.

yea you do have to split the cases, if that ball welds to one of the rods it causes it to turn into a elliptical type shape, ill bet my life that it wouldnt come out, it also causes your clutch arm (the arm sticking out of the case) to fell like theres no clutch, like mushy... so do you have like those same problems?

the only way i was able to fix mine without splitting the cases was through the dealer, they had a easier fix... but it was also much more complicated than physically splitting the cases, so i let them do all the work. they also say its quite a common problem if you pull in the clutch to long. im not saying i trust the dealer, but if i were to split the cases it would of been a $500 job, they found a way to do it for $175, so whatever saved me money was the best way to go.

now if the ball disenigrates... then yea all you have to do is stick the magnet in to get all the little metal pieces out