shee's choke hose?

[ehall1]

sup guys, somewhere here i read theres supposed to be an air hose connecting the carb with the mechanical choke to the carb with none on my 03? iv'e looked and theres no hose coming off the one and going to the other? besides fuel lines. is it supposed to hook on the other side of the primary choke as though you were lookin right through the choke and then go to the secondary were the choke pull would be? this might explain why this beast has been a m/f er to start since new two years ago. thanks ahead of time Ed of course im 40 so everythings harder to start

[Bandit]

trust me you would know if it was off, it runs in between both carbs, you cannot hardly see it with the carbs on

[J.J.]

Ed, saw your post on another forum, anyway here's the same reply.
The hose is normally black coloured, but you get the idea...

[ehall1]

yep just checked and its gone probably never been there. the picture helps a lot thanks guys. that must be why i had to kick the shit out of it to get it started and it liked to die when clutch was pulled in a lot if i didnt keep er reved up. think if its been off a while it leaned it good enough to screw something up? should i take the head off and have a look? if so were do i get new gasket and how much? thanks ahead of time Ed

[quadzilla]

You should be all set without that hose it was just like running it with the choke on. At least you got it figured out quickly it took Jay and me almost 2 weeks to find it on a 01 banshee.

[J.J.]

Originally Posted by ehall1

yep just checked and its gone probably never been there. the picture helps a lot thanks guys. that must be why i had to kick the shit out of it to get it started and it liked to die when clutch was pulled in a lot if i didnt keep er reved up. think if its been off a while it leaned it good enough to screw something up? should i take the head off and have a look? if so were do i get new gasket and how much? thanks ahead of time Ed

Ed, I reckon a compression check should be ok, get yourself an automotive type compression tester it's a good investment for a 2-stroke owner.
Depending on your elevation, you should have at the bare minimum 100PSI in each cylinder, before you have to think about a fresh topend.
The 2 pressures should also be pretty equal, if there is a huge difference between the 2 cylinders, you have a problem.
Your starting problems could also be related to low compression, so IMO, you should get that compression tester, before you buy anything else.

[ehall1]

yeah i already have one so i should have at least 100lbs right? also is it like cars as long as both cylinders are within 10% of each other thats cool? say ones got 125lbs and the others say 110lbs everything should be cool right? also while im at it do you have to take the motor completely out and seperate it too put rings in? i imagine its like a car and have to remove some type of connecting rod to lift the piston above the bore right? ill get a clymers soon but just curious in case its F/ed up? thanks guys Ed

[J.J.]

Originally Posted by ehall1

yeah i already have one so i should have at least 100lbs right? also is it like cars as long as both cylinders are within 10% of each other thats cool? say ones got 125lbs and the others say 110lbs everything should be cool right? also while im at it do you have to take the motor completely out and seperate it too put rings in? i imagine its like a car and have to remove some type of connecting rod to lift the piston above the bore right? ill get a clymers soon but just curious in case its F/ed up? thanks guys Ed

Ed, you're correct, 10% give or take.
Take the measurement on a cold engine, ignition off, throttle wide open.

You don't have to take the motor out of the frame to do a top end, remove the pipes, fuel tank, carbs, etc, drain the cooling water, remove the hoses and the head. Next, just unbolt the cylinders, give them a few smacks upwards with a mallet to break the base gasket and pull the cylinders clear of the pistons. Remember to block the opening to the crankcase with a shop rag to prevent the loose pieces of gasket material of falling in there.
Definetely remember to cover the opening before you remove the clips on the wrist pins. (Don't ask, just trust me on this one)

Anything else the Clymers should help you out, or just ask here or on That other forum

J.J.

[ehall1]

Originally Posted by J.J.

Ed, you're correct, 10% give or take.
Take the measurement on a cold engine, ignition off, throttle wide open.

You don't have to take the motor out of the frame to do a top end, remove the pipes, fuel tank, carbs, etc, drain the cooling water, remove the hoses and the head. Next, just unbolt the cylinders, give them a few smacks upwards with a mallet to break the base gasket and pull the cylinders clear of the pistons. Remember to block the opening to the crankcase with a shop rag to prevent the loose pieces of gasket material of falling in there.
Definetely remember to cover the opening before you remove the clips on the wrist pins. (Don't ask, just trust me on this one)

Anything else the Clymers should help you out, or just ask here or on That other forum

J.J.

damn j.j. your everywere haha. thanks ill do comp test tomorrow and see were i am. then one more question everything you said seems pretty easy but do i need a ring compressor to reinstall the top onto the pistons when i do new rings like on a car does from above the bore? new to all this two stroke stuff but really appreciate the help Thanks Ed

[370banshee]

ed you shouldn't need a compressor for the rings you can compresses tehm with one hand and manuver the cyl with the other. or i have seen somepeople put the piston through the top of the cyl.and then push it all the way down the bore until the skirts stick out the bottem then instal the pin and clips but this looks like it's hard to do and also i'm not sutre if it'll work on shees that depends aon where teh pin is compared to the rings. your best bet is too put the pistons on the rods tehn compress the rings wioth your hand and slide the cyl. over it