Info on Blaster mods

[Blaster2003]

I was just wondering what are the best modification to put on a yamaha blaster. I have owned a Blaster for about 5 months but have owned a quad for 4 years. I just wanted to know how i can make it go faster as I am already finding the limits of the stock blaster.

[91LT250R]

First, put on a new exhaust system and get it rejetted. This is the best bang-for-your-buck mod. I've only had experience with the FMF fatty system, but I know a lot of people also like the Toomey B1 system. You can also ad a high-flow air filter and a new reed cage if you want.

[MaineExport]

Again.. depends on your desired results and style of riding. It also depends on the year of your Blaster.

If it's older than 2003... I would start with front and rear hydraulic brake upgrades. You can piece together a used front hydraulic brake conversion. If you want specific items to look for just ask... Ill give you a complete list. Or.. if you've got plenty of extra money you can buy complete front conversion kits for like $300+. The rear brakes you're better off buying a complete kit from BlasterZone.com or Trenga. I don't think any of the E2S sponsors offer them, unfortunately.

As far as "go faster" mods:

Spend the extra cash for a "right hand" exhaust. Most of the aftermarket Blaster pipes are left handers that are just barely better than stock. The right hand style keeps the pipe (heat) away from the cylinder and head. LRD is the only one I use... they have an adjustable expansion chamber version of their pipe that is pretty sweet.

Also, the stock airbox and boot are EXTREMELY restrictive. An aluminum airbox with a good filter and properly jetted carb will make a world of difference.

My personal advice would always be to work on suspension and handling first. Like I said, start with good brakes and work from there. Nothing is more important than being able to stop! Then.... wider A-arms and axle, longer swing arm... better shocks.

A better handling machine will make you a better rider... I don't mind getting beat in a straight line by a bike length or two when I know I can burn the hell out of most other machines in the turns and whoops.

[Kane]

I put the YZ250 engine in one. What a huge power difference. Barely able to hold on. Vibration wasnt the issue many people believe. I used older 81-84 CR125 radiators for cooling. I handcrafted the pipe from a Blaster fatty pipe and a YZ fatty pipe cut and welded. The suspension IS an area I'd look to first, as well as brakes. The first thing I needed after the engine mod was a better ability to STOP!!!!

[zillaguy89]

Hey this looks like a good place to post this. I am getting ahold of a 98 blaster. WHat does the hydraulic brake conversion entail? I have a set of shee front hubs and rotors, is that gonna help me out any? will i need to get spindles too, and what about the rear? all I have to do there is change the caliper i would think...

[MaineExport]

The usual blaster front swap is the older Banshee spindles and calipers. I believe the spindles will slide right on the stock blaster ball joints. The newer style banshee spindle and caliper can also be used but the ball joint holes have to be machined to fit. I MAY HAVE THIS BACKWARDS>... I'll do some research before I make that my final answer!

But in an nut shell... banshee spindles, hubs, discs, capipers, and master cylinder/resevoir. Direct bolt on swap.

The rear... you can use all the Banshee parts, but you've got to make your own mounting brackets. OR... BlasterZone and Trenga sell a REAL nice dual piston caliper rear brake setup. The BlasterZone is an exact copy of Trenga's but much cheaper. Also, Mark at BZ was something of a sponsor for me... he gave me about $300 in free parts last season... doing that for an amateur racer is freakin' awesome! I like his company a lot.

[yfsrider]

i wouldnt buy one of those rear brake kits...especially that trenga one, it sucks. best thing to do is get a mounting bracket for a shee caliper from www.projectblaster.com and then mod it up yourself.

I'm not sure why everyone seems to think blaster brakes are terrible (02 and lower), becasue for 3 years i have been using and MAINTAINING my brakes, front and rear. they work great, and with a little upkeep work as good as hydraulic brakes. i can easily lock up front and rear at any time, i can do stoppies, etc

[Kane]

I guess you don't often get your brakes wet? Mine get wet all the time. Touch the brake just a hair and get thrown over the bars. Lock up that way too many times and the pad gets torn off the front shoes. The back brake gets wet and just stays locked. Blaster brakes work very nicely in the dry terrain. But I'm in mud season almost year-round so they don't perform as they should. I converted over to hydro brakes and have not had problems since.

[MaineExport]

I'm with Kane... the old front brakes were at the very best just tolerable, but the rear was useless if it ever got wet.

As far as the Trenga brake kit I can't say much, but I do have the BlasterZone kit (supposedly an exact copy of the Trenga) and it is FAR better than the East Coast ATV kit. The East Coast kit is all Banshee gear with an adaptor mounting bracket (which had to be machined down to fit I might add). It works fine, but the dual piston caliper on the BlasterZone kit is infinitely more adjustable and has gobs more stopping power than the Banshee style kit.

[Blaster2003]

I was just wondering what sort of performance i would gain by putting in a G3 reed and spacer kit on a stock blaster.